We've been tipped straight from the plane into the heart of Africa, to the place where Livingstone first set eyes on the falls and named them after his queen. The locals of the time called the rushing water 'The smoke that roars' (mosi- oa- Tunya) and fewer are closer to the Big Smoke than The Royal Livingstone. Any closer and we'd be plunging over.

This is my second visit to this amazing hotel but the arrival isn't any less exciting.

Liveried staff are waiting at the private dock with African-sunset coloured cocktails and cold towels. Soaked by spray my sun hat appears to be wilting in the heat and I'm not far behind it so the cold towel is more than welcome. An amazing array of tiny lunch bites from Chef Anuj Ovaleker are also waiting, so delicately arranged they look almost too good to eat...almost.

Although it was only built in 2001 The Royal Livingstone has channeled its namesake in a big way. It oozes colonial charm from the wind up gramophone on its terrace to the triple gin and tonics served in the bar. (I like this place already). Oh and did I mention the cucumber sandwiches for afternoon tea. There is a languid charm about the place that instantly relaxes you.

Perhaps it's the easy charm of the Zambian staff, or internet slower than snail-mail which means crack-berry types are forced to wind down, or the sound of the Zambezi constantly flowing past the edge of the manicured lawns which makes me so relaxed. Or perhaps it's the size of those damned gins. Whatever the reason I remember that on my first visit by late afternoon I was so relaxed I was  virtually catatonic. It is was all I could do to leaf indolently through the pages of my novel and gaze at the river and those smoking falls.

This time i'm on a tighter schedule and have to rush off for a massage before I'm even unpacked (rush? massage?). White canopied massage tents have been set up at the very edge of the river, their muslin curtains blowing gently in the breeze. And despite the initial sprint to the tent I find myself relaxing as strong hands knead away the knots while I listen to the sound of the river and the strange bassoon cry of the hippos.  

When we fly over the falls I see just how close our hotel is to the edge, closer than the orange ring of its sister property Zambezi Sun and closer than Elephant Hills and the historic but faded Victoria Falls Hotel over the border in Zimbabwe. From here it looks as if the hotels are facing each other across a tiny crack in a pond, all be it one with water frothing like a washing machine,  not a yawning canyon cut by the relentless river.

You could spend an evening aboard the historic Royal Livingstone Express train but to be honest it isn't nearly as luxurious as the hotel itself , so I'd rather watch the sunset from the hotel.  Early evening on the Zambezi and the sun is a blood orange in the sky, it looks as if its juice is leaking into the river; a shiny red trail that glimmers across the water as the sun sets.  For that alone I'd come back again.. and again.

Check in:  The Royal Livingstone, Livingstone, ZambiaUltimate Luxury:  The Presidential Suite,with a wide terrace overlooking the grounds and the riverMost Indulgent Moment: A massage in a tent on the edge of the ZambeziInsider Secrets:  The colonial bar has a VERY impressive selection of whiskiesThe Little Things: Staff are adept at scaring off over-enthusiastic monkeysJunior Luxies: welcome but keep them away from the crocsDress code: smart casual with a hint of  safari khaki for outingsPerfect luggage: Bashed-about weathered leather that has been all over AfricaDent in the platinum: Luxury Hotels Link:  www.suninternational.comLuxury Travel Link: South African Airways www.flysaa.com