LUXURY HOTELS: Four Seasons Hotel Gresham Palace, Budapest, hUNGARY

Style: Oozing class and old school glamour.

Scene: Top spot overlooking the Chain Bridge and Buda district on the other side of the River Danube.

I arrive late in the day and there's just time to pad around the marble bathroom with its heated floor and check out the L'Occitane goodies before the call of the king size bed. Next morning I explore in the light of day and the Park Suite reveals its USP, a double aspect with two balconies. One opens onto the classic picture postcard shot of the Danube against the backdrop of Buda and Royal Palace (in a city neatly divided by the river and criss-crossed by bridges the hotel is on the Pest side of things, close to the main Andrassy Boulevard and shopping streets).

Throughout the suite there are thoughtful touches. A selection of CDs to play on the music system, a leaflet of jogging routes and an eagerly awaited plate of sweet treats that arrives early each evening. Outside other bedrooms in the morning I see shoes immaculately wrapped in tissue paper, spirited away and returned free of charge by the shoe cleaning fairy. There are all the usual five-star trappings such as international TV channels, safe, mini bar and Wi-Fi (although Internet addicts should note you only get half an hour free and then it's chargeable). Whilst all 179 rooms and suites reflect the building's opulent Art Nouveau heritage, many with original features, book one with Danube in the name for a river view.

In the bathroom I dither between the rainforest shower and bath tub, complete with pillow, but opt not to use the phone by the toilet which must be for business types who can't bear to be out of touch for a minute.  

A focal point, in more ways than one, is the Gresham Kavehaz reflecting the golden era of Budapest's café society (at one time there were more than 400 coffee shops). Floor to ceiling glass puts window seat diners in an enviable goldfish bowl as passers-by steal glances inside.

The Kavehaz moves seamlessly through coffee shop, lunch and afternoon tea mode before the lights dim and it finishes each day as a restaurant. If you can't decide what to pick go for the six-course tasting menu that has the option (a very good one) of being served with selected wines to accompany each imaginative course. My meal starts with a crispy oyster and strawberry soup, ends with a white chocolate bavaroise and features guinea fowl and sea bream somewhere in between. Who says Hungarian food is all dumplings and goulash? For foodies wanting to find out more the hotel runs cookery courses with trips to the nearby Great Market Hall piled high with seasonal produce.

The building, restored to its former glory by an army of craftsmen to say nothing of a $110 million investment by Four Seasons before opening as a hotel in 2004, is undeniably grand. It could easily fall into the trap of being stuffy, but the mood is welcoming, friendly and intuitive thanks to its staff. I get the distinct impression everyone is encouraged to exercise initiative and not stick to a predetermined corporate mantra.

I make the most of sightseeing time with a one-to-one half-day guided tour with Anna Gorgey, who provides a fascinating overview of Budapest tailored to my interests, which includes going to an authentic café for coffee and cake, albeit the irresistible display at the Ruszwurm Confectionary near the palace results in cakes plural. The hotel arranges various tours, from a straightforward walkabout to a 'ladies first' limousine outing dedicated to spa, fashion and female culture. There's even a vampire-themed twilight jaunt ending with a glass of Bikaver, aka the robust Hungarian wine Bull's Blood.

Budapest is famous for being the world's only capital city with thermal springs and its spas are a unique attraction. At the hotel it's also well worth visiting the top floor spa, with its well-equipped gym, whirlpool, infinity pool and relaxation area with complimentary drinks and snacks if you prefer to chill out rather than work out.

For sheer indulgence try a chocolate body and facial treatment or a scrub and massage using brown sugar, honey and Hungarian Tokai wine, with an optional glass to drink afterwards (who'd actually say no to that?).  I put myself in the capable hands of therapist Eva for a 60-minute deep tissue massage and float back down to the luxurious suite in a suitably zoned out state to find the plate of delicious little eats already in situ.