Take the Mandi Bunga bathing ritual for example.

I confess when I received my invite to participate in the Mandi Bunga bathing ritual the night before I had been less than thrilled. It is an invitation given to selected guests (often honeymooners) at Tanjong Jara Resort where each morning a procession marks the official opening of the spa for the day. Sitting at Nelayan beach restaurant, several chardonnays into dinner when the note is delivered, my companion and I giggle ungratefully at the thought of being singled out. We are both female and patently not lovestruck honeymooners, having left husbands and children behind for a spot of 'R' n 'Spa', and we consider ourselves unsuitable and quite possibly (given our giggles) unworthy too.

When our procession reaches the Spa Village (yes this resort has a whole spa 'village' not just a room or two) I am taken to one of the private pavilions with outdoor bathing benches on which I sit as a therapist gently pours flowered water over me, and quietly wishes me health, happiness..all the good things in life. The blossoms stick to my sarong, water droplets hang on my eye lashes and I feel, well, like a queen.

  ...the beauty of this traditional royal cleansing ritual and its ancient significant begins to seep into our souls.

Now I have a confession to make, this isn't the first time I have been pampered in a spa. In the course of my lucky life I have been face down on a massage table more often than Bill Gates has made another billion. And I can honestly say that the special Asam Roselle massage at Tanjong Jara was one of the best spa treatments I have ever had. In part because of the beauty of the surrounds and but mainly because of the gentle expertise of my therapist.

YTL Resorts which owns Tanjong Jara, is deservedly know for its extravagant Spa Villages (you can find others at Pangkor Laut Resort and in the Cameron Highlands) but it the companies philosophy of using ingredients and therapies from the region, rather than ubiquitous treatments found anywhere in the world is what makes these spas really special.

The Malay treatments at Tanjong Jara have been handed down from generation to generation (all be it with a large dose of creative adaption five star spa use). The ingredients used come from indigenous herbs and plants, not a large cosmetics company , which is why you'll find leaves in your bath and crushed husks in your skin scrub.

In danger of being over-spa'd and over-indulged we take a day trip out to snorkel off the island of Pulau Tenggol with its sheer cliffs and ribbon of silky sand. This is the heart of Terengganu Marine Park and the sea is the kind of clear that underwater photographers pray for; a turtle glides down into the turquoise depths - click- hoards of a brightly colours parrot fish rotate their fins in unison - click- jewel-bright nudibranch cling to rocks - click- a black tipped reef shark slinks away - click (slight camera shake on that one).

There is some serious diving to be done here too, through underwater channels to depths of up to 82 feet (25 metres). The Amazing Grace dive site is where the lucky few will get to see the rare shovel nose shark gliding amid blue spotted stingrays. But today we're happy to swim in the shallows snorkelling indolently amongst the shoals. We eat lunch out of hotel Tiffin boxes in the little cafe and resort on the island and lie on the beach reading bad airport novels until it is time to get back on the boat.

On our last night we eat at T the Di Atas Sungei perched above the creek. No menus here just chef Ann who will make anything you ask for. To be honest she leads you gently by the hand with mouth watering descriptions of what I suspect are tried and tested combinations. We eat fresh fish and spicy chicken as the torches flicker and the sound of gamelan music floats out over the bay.

Check in: Tanjong Jara Resort, batu 8 off jalan dungun, 23000 Dungun, Terengganu, Malaysia. Te +609 845 1100Ultimate Luxury:  The underwater wonderland on the resort's doorstepMost Indulgent Moment:  Any treatment in the spaInsider Secrets: Resident naturalist Captain Mok lived among the jungle tribes when he worked as an officer for the Malay Special Forces.  He is a fascinating man to talk to. The Little Things: A batik sarong is a take-home gift for all who visit the spa Junior Luxies: No kids club but families are warmly welcomedDress code: Sarong meets silkDent in the platinum: Luxury Link: www.ytlhotels.com www.tanjongjararesort.com