From my vantage point I can see a line of camels race towards me at top speed, straddling their humps are young boys so small their silhouettes look like little question marks. These are camels which will be used in the high stakes races in the UAE, many of which are trained in Oman. We are over-nighting at Desert Nights a deluxe camp near Al Wasil in Oman. Note, I say deluxe, not luxury; it is the location here that makes things special. Visiting Muscat without seeing the dunes would be like going to Egypt and not seeing the pyramids. So although the Wahiba Sands are a good four hour drive from Muscat (Oman's capital) it is worth the effort . The camp's tented cabins are like a line of shells on a beach. From the top of the nearest dune the desert stretches out in undulating waves and the sand shimmers. In the evening Bedu locals play traditional music as we look up at stars in a kohl-black sky.