"Oh, who can ever be tired of Bath?" Northanger Abbey, Chapter 10.
You can almost here the horses' hooves clattering on the cobblestones. Most of the buildings she mentions are still there and both novels have scenes in the 18th century Pump Room, in Alfred Street. People still gather here to drink the tepid spa water and to view the impressive Roman Baths. The water is revolting but Devonshire cream tea is a must. You can soak up the regal atmosphere and be serenaded by a palm court trio, just as gossiping diners were in Austen's day.
The Austen family lived at 1 The Paragon and later at 4 Sydney Place, where a blue commemorative plaque will help you pick the right house. However, the real joy is to wander the streets alongside her fictitious characters. Camden Crescent, where Sir Walter Elliot lived; Laura Place, home of the haughty Dalrymples, and Union Street, where Anne Elliot and Caption Wentworth walked blissfully in love.
From Bath the Austen family often visited the seaside at Lyme Regis, Dorset. The stone jetty, known as The Cobb, is a famous literary landmark. Not only did Louisa Musgrove fall from here in Persuasion but John Fowles' French Lieutenant's Woman stood there staring out to sea.
In Bay Cottage, now a café at the west end of Marine Parade, were Captain Harville's rooms. This is where Louisa went to convalesce. On the cliff above the cottage a public garden commemorates Austen's association with Lyme. The town is also popular with fossil hunters (the first dinosaur skeleton discovery occurred nearby). Those staying overnight should take rooms at one of the small guest houses or bed and breakfasts. Try Harbour View or Cliff Cottage, both on Cobb Road, at about $40 a night.
Jane Austen lived in more humble circumstances. Her fans cannot leave England without making a pilgrimage to Chawton, Hampshire. Austen moved here from Bath in 1809, soon after her father died.
Her home for most of the rest of her life, restored by the Jane Austen Memorial Trust, has been furnished in period pieces, and memorabilia includes extracts from her letters and manuscripts.
Austen wrote at a desk in the living room. She requested that the hinges of the living room door should not be oiled so she could have an early warning of interruptions. As tourists walk in, the door still creaks.
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Best properties: Some of England's most historic houses are owned by The National Trust. You can visit the following, used as film locations:
Pride and Prejudice: Belton House, Lincolnshire (as Lady Catherine de Bourgh's home, Rosings); Lyme Park, Cheshire (exterior of Darcy's house, Pemberley); Sudbury Hall, Derbyshire (interior); Lacock Village, Wiltshire (Meryton Village).
Sense and Sensibility: Saltram House, Devon (Dashwood family home); Montacute House, Somerset (Palmer's Cleveland estate); Mompesson House, Wiltshire (Mrs Jennings' home); Compton Castle, Devon (Mr Willoughby's home).
For more information write to The National Trust, PO Box 39, Bromley, Kent, BRI 3XL England, or phone + 81 315 1111.
Best map: VisitBritain publishes a movie map to help you find your way around the films and TV series shot there. Sense And Sensibility and Pride and Prejudice are included. Pick it up when you arrive in England.
Luxury Links:
www.visitbritain.com www.nationaltrust.org.ukHilary Doling 31/3/10 Updated 28/2/2017
The world is a book, and those who do not travel read only a page. St Augustine
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